Vivetta Pre-Fall 2022 Collection | vogue
With few exceptions, female designers do not live in the fashion bubbles that their male counterparts seem to inhabit. They mostly lead normal, relatable, hard-working lives – work and family, family and work. Sometimes they give birth to babies, which differ from other babies only in that they have a rather fabulous wardrobe from day one. Vivetta Ponti has just welcomed her third child, an adorable little angel named Nina. She’s also just moved into a bigger apartment while working on several collections, despite the pandemic raging outside the door. Her nanny was sick and on leave. On a Zoom call, she looked cheerful and fresh as a rose. We wonder how she does it. Ponti just shrugged, dismissing the question.
Ponti may be rooted in reality, but she has the magical thinking and poetry of a child, obsessive, surreal and stubborn. “My collections are like dreams without logic,” she said. The abundance of references she scatters there apparently makes no sense. Yet, as is the case for Pre-Fall, they improbably coalesce in the form of coveted dresses printed with collages of old Flemish paintings, quilted piuminos with incongruous feather trims, and gray flannel trouser suits emblazoned with Collars embroidered with graceful intertwined hands whose fingernails are painted red.
It is not surprising that Ponti loves André Breton, the father of surrealism. “What he said was to free the mind and rediscover the sense of wonder, beyond any aesthetic or moral concerns,” she explained. It’s easier said than done, but letting his imagination run wild seems to come naturally to Ponti. With what she calls “contemporary deconstructivism”, she practices what Breton preaches, mixing the psychedelia of the 60s and the minimalism of the 90s, the dark atmospheres of the paintings of the great Flemish masters with the “psycho-pop surrealism” and Victorian tapestries. and Op Art. Fluctuating between huge padded stoles in the shape of kissing hands, fluorescent Lolita-esque lingerie twisted into party dresses and demure pleated skirts worthy of a schoolteacher, the world of Vivetta Ponti is not without reminiscent of a twilight zone – soft and a bit wacky – where fashion is a dream, and reality is just over the rainbow.